[등짐쟁이 기파리의 유랑]① 안산 풍도 백패킹

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[이데일리 트립 in 정기영 기자] 블로그 꿈꾸는 자유인, 길 위에서 놀다’를 운영중인 등짐쟁이 정기영 기자는 백패킹(backpacking)을 통해 우리나라 구석구석의 소식을 전하는 느린 달팽이 여행으로 유명하다. 때로는 관광지로, 때로는 오지로, 때로는 마을로. 시절에 맞춰 유랑하며 영혼의 자유인이 되길 갈망한다. 그녀의 등짐쟁이 여행은 오늘도 길 위에서 노는 중이다. [편집자주]



봄꽃 풍도(豊島) – 봄바람 불면 생각나는 카페

새봄이 오면 나도 모르게 5년 전 봄날의 풍도 카페가 생각난다. 지붕도 없고, 의자도 변변치 않았지만 풍도에만 있다는 풍도 바람꽃을 그려 놓은 풍도 카페에서는 보기만 해도 달콤함과 봄내음이 풍겼다. 체감 온도보다 꽃이 봄바람을 먼저 부르는 경기도 안산 풍도(豊島)는 백패킹이라는 등짐살이를 시작한 지 얼마 안 되어 재미를 붙이기 시작했을 때 다녀왔던 곳으로 섬 여행의 느긋함과 달콤한 여유를 처음 맛본 곳이다.



풍도에 발을 딛던 날은 풍도의 야생화가 거의 질 무렵이었다. 하루에 한 번 운항하는 풍도행 서해 누리호는 인천 연안여객선 터미널을 출발해 대부도 방아머리 선착장, 육도를 거쳐 풍도에 도착한다. 바닷길로는 2시간 20분여, 짙은 해무와 안개가 잦은 곳으로 더러는 배가 며칠 동안 결항을 하기도 하는 서해의 외딴 섬이다.

선착장에서 풍도를 이루고 있는 후망산을 넘어 숙영지로 생각해 놓은 북배로 가려는 길. 마을 어르신이 손 사레를 저으시며 ‘덤불이 우거지고 뱀이 많이 나오는 곳’이라며 채석장을 통해 북배로 가라고 권하셨다. 예쁘게 채색이 된 담장을 가진 풍도 분교와 몽돌 해변을 지나 북배로 향했다. 공사장인가 싶은 채석장으로 다가가니 경악을 금치 못할 풍경이 눈앞에 펼쳐졌다.



바닷가로 이어지는 엄청난 넓이의 후망산 자락이 맨살 그대로 드러난 풍경. 외지인이 들어와 처음에는 농사를 짓는다고 땅을 조금 팔라고 해서 팔았고, 그다음에는 양어장을 만들 거라며 땅을 조금 팔라고 해서 섬 주민들을 꾀어서 땅을 팔게 했다. 그렇게 조금씩 사들인 땅이 어느 날 채석장이 되어 후망산 일부를 깎으며 풍도를 반 토막 내버리듯 만들었다. 풍도의 돌은 질이 아주 좋아 한 때는 전국 각지에 인테리어용으로 이곳의 돌을 채취해 판매했었다더니, 마치 무 자르듯 뚝 잘라 놓은 산의 모습은 놀라울 따름이었다.

이런 곳에 북배가 있다고? 궁금증은 잠시, 채석장을 지나 다시 숲으로 들면서 비밀의 방에 들듯 북배가 나타났다. 북배는 길게 뻗어 있는 붉은 바위라는 뜻하는 곳으로 백패킹의 성지라는 굴업도의 개머리 언덕과 닮아 작은 개 머리 언덕으로 불린다. 같은 배를 탔지만, 우리보다 훨씬 먼저 도착한 다른 팀들이 이미 자리를 잡은 상태에서 머무를 곳을 찾는 건 어려운 일이었다. 곳곳에 바위, 비좁은 경사면, 맨땅에 불질한 흔적, 버려진 쓰레기를 피해 그나마 찾아낸 곳은 소나무 아래 약간 경사진 곳으로 텐트 두 동을 간신히 피칭했다.

온통 황톳물을 뒤집어쓴 듯한 바위들 일색인 북배는 이 섬에 채석장이 생긴 이유가 납득이 갈 정도로 색도 곱고 절경을 이룬다. 해가 점점 내려가며 북배 앞 등대가 있는 북배 딴목도 섬과 단절되어 섬 속의 섬이 되는 시간. 밤은 고요했고, 몇몇 백패커들의 이야기 소리가 들리는 듯하더니 이내 잔잔한 파도소리에 묻히고 만다.



흐리게 올라오는 해를 보며 일출은 포기했다. 겨우 하루 저녁이지만 머물면서 만들어진 쓰레기는 집에 가서 버리기 위해 배낭 안에 패킹 후 마을 뒤편 언덕 위에 올랐다. 풍도 은행나무와 야생화를 보기 위한 걸음. 거리를 두고 서로 마주하고 있는 은행나무 두 그루는 노거수로 800년, 500년이 넘었다. 단풍이 피는 계절이면 풍도를 지나는 모든 배가 노랗게 물든 이 은행나무를 보고 이 섬이 풍도인 것을 알 정도로 선원들 사이에서는 알려진 나무다. 노거수는 수맥을 끌어당겨 인근 섬에서 가장 물맛이 좋은 샘을 만들었지만, 식수가 보급되는 이즈음은 사용을 안 하니 더 마실 수 없는 상태다.



후망산 야생 정원. 숲은 여리여리한 야광 빛 연초록에서 초록으로 변하는 시기로 눈요기할 정도의 야생화는 남았다. 은행나무 정자에서 풍도 마을을 내려다보니 온통 꽃 세상이다. 하얗게 야실야실 흔들리는 꽃이 마을 뒤 언덕을 하얗게 물들여 놓아 아지랑이 피듯 파르륵 댄다. 풍요롭기를 바라며 豊島(풍요로울 풍, 섬 도)라고 부르지만 풍족하지 않은 이 섬은 야생화가 피는 이때만큼은 그 어느 섬보다 부자 섬이 된다.

배 시간이 되어 선착장으로 내려가는 길, 복지회관 맞은편 창고 건물에 풍도 바람꽃이 그려진 건물 벽이 보인다. 풍도 카페다. 동네 어르신들의 사랑방 노릇을 하기도 하는 곳으로 카페에 왔으니 커피 한 잔이 빠지면 섭섭하지. 카페라고 이름 붙였으니 마담 이모가 있을 리는 만무하고, 내가 마담이 되고, 내가 손님이 되어 믹스 커피 한 잔을 끓여 마신다. 지붕도 없고, 테이블도 없고, 변변한 의자도 없다. 햇볕이 그대로 내리쪼이는 노상 카페. 햇빛과 풍도 바람꽃이 어우러졌던 풍도 카페에서 마셨던 커피는 지금껏 내가 들살이하면서 마신 커피 중 최고일 정도로 잊지 그 맛을 잊지 못한다.



북배에서 보이는 풍경은 백패커들의 마음을 사로잡아 입소문이 퍼지기 시작하며 한 때는 하루 30명 이상 풍도를 들어갔지만 지형적으로 좁은 북배는 수용할 수 없는 포화상태가 되었다. 게다가 무분별하게 즐기는 몇몇 백패커들이 버린 쓰레기들로 인해 마을 주민들은 치우다 힘에 부쳐 결국 ‘백패커들 입도금지’라는 자체 방어벽이 생겼다. 자연이 좋아서 다니지만 자연을 망치는 건 백패커들이 원하는 게 아니었을 것이다. 안타깝다. 지금도 북배의 바위들은 석양이 내려앉으면 황톳물처럼 물들 것이고 잔잔한 파도가 부딪치는 소리가 운치 있을 텐데.



겨울이 지나고 봄바람이 뺨을 스칠 즈음이면 북배에서 보았던 바다와 풍도 카페에서 마셨던 커피 맛이 그립다. 지금도 풍도 카페가 아직 그 자리에 있을까. 이제는 더 이상 백패킹을 하지 못 하는 섬이 되었지만 풍도는 여전히 내 기억 속에서 상상의 백패킹을 하는 섬이다. 난 여전히 풍도의 북배에서 지는 노을을 바라보고, 북배 딴목이 섬 속의 섬이 되는 풍경을 보며, 북배에 부딪치는 잔잔한 파도 소리를 듣는다.

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